Creating a cosmetic emulsion

Making a cosmetic emulsion is an essential step in the production of natural, homemade skincare products. This process combines two normally immiscible liquids, such as water and oil, using an emulsifying agent to stabilize the mixture. As a result, you can create moisturizing creams, milks or lotions perfectly tailored to your specific needs, whether in terms of texture, skin benefits or the natural fragrances you wish to incorporate. Here's a practical guide to help you create your own cosmetic emulsion.

Ingredients needed for an emulsion:

1. Aqueous phase (water): Hydrolat, infusion, osmosed or bottled water.
2. Oily phase: Vegetable oils, vegetable butters, or other fats.
3. Emulsifier : Emulsifying wax (e.g. beeswax, olivem 1000, Xyliance).
4. Preservative: To prevent microbial contamination, especially if you use water.
5. Additives (optional): Essential oils, plant extracts, moisturizing or soothing actives, vitamins.

Equipment:

• Two heat-resistant bowls
• A spatula
• Electric mixer or hand whisk
• Water bath
• A sterile bottle or jar to store the emulsion

Steps for making a cosmetic emulsion:

1. Sterilization: Before you start, make sure all your equipment and work area are clean and sterile. This will prevent microbial contamination in your final product.

2. Weigh ingredients: Weigh the ingredients of the water and oil phases separately. Typically, a cosmetic emulsion is composed of 60-80% water phase and 20-40% oil phase. Follow the recommended percentages for your recipe.

3. Oily phase: In a first bowl, mix the vegetable oils, butters and chosen emulsifier. Heat this mixture in a bain-marie at around 70°C until the emulsifier has completely melted.

4. Aqueous phase: In another bowl, heat your aqueous phase (water or hydrolats) in a bain-marie at the same temperature as the oily phase (approx. 70°C). Both phases must be at the same temperature to guarantee a successful emulsion.

5. Mixing the phases: When both phases are at the right temperature, remove them from the water bath. Slowly pour the water phase into the oil phase, stirring constantly. Use a hand whisk or electric mixer to create the emulsion. Continue mixing for a few minutes until the texture becomes smooth and creamy.

6. Cooling: Continue mixing your emulsion until it has cooled to room temperature. This stabilizes the emulsion and prevents phase separation.

7. Adding additives: Once the emulsion has cooled (below 40°C), you can add essential oils, preservatives, moisturizing actives (such as aloe vera or hyaluronic acid), or other heat-sensitive ingredients.

8. Jarring: Transfer your emulsion into a sterile bottle or jar. Use airtight containers to avoid contamination.

Additional tips:

• Balance phases: Make sure the proportions between the aqueous and oily phases are correct. An imbalance can lead to emulsion separation.
• Preservative: If you're using an aqueous phase, it's highly recommended to add a preservative to prevent the proliferation of bacteria and molds. Cosgard is an example of a commonly used natural preservative.
• Customized textures: For a lighter texture, increase the water phase. For a thicker texture, increase the oil phase or add thickening waxes.